Shingle siding on a Wayne house starts lifting along the butt lines when preparation is rushed. LX Pro Home works sound courses and exposed edges by hand, then applies the specified coating. Soft or structurally damaged wood is identified during the walkthrough and must be repaired before painting. The same preparation-first approach applies to stucco, clapboard, and trim.
Between thousands of wood shingle edges and deep, shaded eave lines, a Wayne exterior demands specialized, hands-on preparation. We focus on three high-vulnerability areas to protect your home from premature failure:
We wash the siding, then scrape it back row by row to solid wood. Loose or split shingles get replaced while our staging is already up, rather than painted over and left to fail again from underneath.
The roof overhangs, the ends of the roof boards and the corners of the trim hold water and dry slowly, so that's where rot starts. We cut out the soft sections and replace them before priming rather than filling them and painting over.
Where the woodwork meets stone or runs up to a slate roof, we cut the line by hand. Slate cracks easily and stone holds a stain that won't come out, so we protect both before a brush goes near them.
The deep roof overhangs that define Shingle-Style architecture also place the most critical repair work in the hardest areas to reach. Standard ladders set on the ground rarely provide a workable angle for the underside of a deep eave, and complex rooflines mean a single staging setup almost never covers two sides of the house. We design our scaffolding around the specific contours of your roofline rather than the layout of your lawn. The process takes more time, but ensures every inch is prepped safely and correctly.
That upfront planning guarantees an accurate quote. The areas that rot first—soffits, rafter tails, and eave returns—are invisible from the driveway. A contractor who quotes your house from the ground is guessing on the most critical cost variable. At LX Pro Home, we inspect your eaves at the ladder level during your estimate, not on the first day of the job.
The paint on wood shingles keep peeling because the edges never got coated. A wood shingle has two exposed sides and a bottom edge. A sprayer only reaches the flat face so water gets in behind the finish and pushes it off along the butt lines within a couple of seasons. The only way to reach those edges is work the courses by hand. It takes longer, but it's the difference between a finish that lasts and one you're redoing in two years.
The best way to protect a slate roof is to stay off it entirely. Slate tiles easily crack underfoot, causing hidden leaks that don't show up until the next storm. We position our staging and ladders around your roof structure rather than directly on it. If equipment must touch the slate, we use specialized padding to distribute the weight safely. In the rare case where a section can't be reached without stepping on the roof, we'll discuss it with you upfront before any work begins.
No, old paint doesn’t always have to come off the shingles first. We only remove paint that’s failing. Paint that’s firm and well-bonded gets scuffed so the new coat can adhere. Anything blistered, peeling, or lifting along the edges is scraped back to bare wood because new paint will fail if the layer underneath is coming loose. The amount of scraping versus sound paint on your siding is the biggest factor in project cost, which is why we inspect your shingles in person rather than quoting from a photo.
Spraying skips the shingle edges where water enters first. Let us evaluate your home’s elevations, inspect soft wood along the rooflines, and map out a hand-applied, weather-rated coating system designed to withstand Main Line winters.
Exterior work runs March through November; houses this size are the first slots to fill in spring.
Get a Free In-Home Estimate Call (267) 902-8276